I will show you how to start and how to proceed in order to successfully build the ring.
Here's a tip: To make slurry, which you can use instead of water, I recommend mixing dry clay powder and vinegar (plaster vinegar will do). Make sure that the slurry is creamy and not too thin (a little thicker than cream) and that there are no lumps.
Use completely dry pieces of clay and powder them between firm plastic foil with the rolling pin. The clay powder dissolves more quickly than plastic clay. With this vinegar clay slip you can also glue and repair bone-dry ceramic pieces. Please wear a dust mask. If you need to fill parts or larger cracks, mix some cellulose (completely dissolved toilet paper) with the vinegar clay. This method is promising.
Overview of the chapter:
Video length: min. 55 min.
What you need: Plywood thickness about 4 to 10 mm, To make the template. Clay, firm cloth, stapler with staples or padding nails, water sprayer, cutting wire, knife, various modelling woods, tin kidney, turning bar, pottery needle, adhesive tape, felt tip pen, possibly a knurling wheel,
I'm glad you're with us today. See you in the video, Jürg
Video 01
Here you can find the PDF with the subtitles and time information for video 01.
This can help you to find the different parts of the video more quickly and easily.
This can help you to find the different parts of the video more quickly and easily.
REMINDER:
"Perseverance pays off and leads to the goal".
"Perseverance pays off and leads to the goal".
The first side wall (which is lying here, however) with the help of the template in the construction phase
Always press on tone after tone in small pieces. (Memory of the clay)
Scratch well and press strand down to the halfway point
Press the wall diagonally
Here you can see the template with mounted help strips for the inner wall. These two battens can help with the exact construction, but do not necessarily have to be used.
Some notes on making the ring
The template is in use. A side wall of the ring is created. The wall must be relatively thick. Here it is 20 mm. Why does it have to be like this? The individual layers are created by removing clay. If you remove 6 layers of 1 mm each, the wall thickness will still be 14 mm at the thinnest point. The critical wall thickness is 10 mm. This is half of the total wall thickness. In my experience, cracks can occur at this residual wall thickness. Consequently, the remaining wall thickness should be at least 11 mm after the individual layers have been removed. For this reason, we need this relatively thick wall and the most accurate production possible. I will keep pointing out possible mistakes in the production.
What you should pay attention to:
You should use the softest clay possible, as this requires less force and pressure and is easier on your finger joints.
If possible, press the clay onto the clay and not next to it and drive it forward on the surface (board with cloth). This will result in fewer binding mistakes. (Again, the memory of the clay)
You should use the softest clay possible, as this requires less force and pressure and is easier on your finger joints.
If possible, press the clay onto the clay and not next to it and drive it forward on the surface (board with cloth). This will result in fewer binding mistakes. (Again, the memory of the clay)
Ready? Let's move on to the next chapter!